Looking back, the past month is kind of a blur: Talking to the Brittish man next to me on the plane about economic crises and other equally uninteresting topics in an attempt to dispel the apprehension and excitement of the journey; sitting contently in a corner café sipping my first café con leche since landing (mmmm); frantically looking at 7 apartments in day only to be told at the end of the interview (yes, interview!) that 30 other people had already seen it and they would call ME if they were interested; an amazing home-cooked paella by some old friends; drinking and peeing in the gardens of the Spanish royal palace; and yes, seeing a Spanish drag queen I was going out with for a couple weeks in Sevilla on a reality TV show.. I almost choked on my churro!
Yes a lot has happened, and after a crazy four weeks of meeting new and exciting people, finding an apartment, being sick, and getting thrown into one of the zoos they call Spanish schools, I am happy to breathe a little and reflect on all that's happened.
Although I am here now for the second time, I have to say I feel a bit like I am starting over. The Spanish I acquired in Sevilla did resurface from the dark corners of my brain after a couple of days, but I frequently find myself wondering 'was I really here for six months?' The reason for the thought being that a lot of my Spanish interactions have been difficult. The fact of the matter is that Spanish spoken by Spanish people in most cases is really f-ing fast. One-on-one interactions allow me the opportunity to concentrate better on what's being said and have things repeated, but you get in a group of drunk Spaniards in a bar and it's damn near impossible! The one bit of encouragement I've gotten though was from a co-worker of mine who's been here for five years, and he said 'if you can understand a group of them in a bar, you can understand anything!' At least I know now where the ultimate test of my progress lies...
I work in the Vicálvaro "Bilingual" School, a town that lies just outside the main center of Madrid. I say "Bilingual" in quotes, because it's pretty much a title the Spanish government has slapped onto a bunch of regular schools within the last few years in an effort to prepare kids for more global opportunities in the future. Schools in poorer areas, such as Vicálvaro, now get better teachers who teach in English, causing more privileged families to move to those areas so their kids can learn English, in turn upping the social status of that area (or so the government thinks). But is it really working?
To some extent perhaps.. but the majority of kids still come from a lower social class, including about 20 gitano (gypsy) children in my school, some of whom live in shanty towns outside the city. It's really an interesting thing for me to see.. these kids get bused in to school one or two times a week smelling of bonfire, speak little to no Spanish (as we attempt to teach them English), and I am told begin to marry and have kids at 14. Some of them are very cute and interactive, although I think there is a bit of a racist mentality among the kids as they seem to get in fights frequently with the Spanish kids. The Spanish government allows for and supports their way of life because their culture dictates that they live that way, and they have been a key part of Spanish culture for literally hundreds of years.
Although the bilingual effort is a valiant one, the class environment is crazier than anything I've ever seen. The loud and uninhibited behaviors encouraged by Spanish culture, coupled with a particularly unruly group of children, and the general disorganization of the teachers and school system allow for an equally fun and frustrating brand of organized chaos. The first 5-10 minutes of every class I've been in the teacher spends yelling at and punishing the kids until they are quiet (enough) for the teacher to be heard. Nonetheless, they never stop talking.... never. It's gotten to the point where I've accepted it as the way you teach here... you talk loud enough to drown out the ones that are talking so that those who actually want to listen can hear you.
Nonetheless, the kids are very cute and it is a lot of fun. It's incredibly entertaining trying to get a group of Spanish kids to pronounce things like 'Wisconsin', 'Bucky Badger', and 'Mississippi' (they especially loved that one when they got it). On my first day I remember trying to talk to one girl who stared at me blankly and confused and then responded, "Mira, yo no entiendo ni patatas de lo que estás diciendo..." which literally translates to "Look mister, I don't understand what the potatoes you're saying to me..." I couldn't help laughing out loud at the expression. I can honestly say, though, that I love my school.. the teachers are great, the classes are fun (although exhausting), and the other 4 English assistants are really supportive.
This has gotten quite long, but I still feel that SO much more has happened in four weeks. Nevertheless, I will resist the urge to continue for now. I appreciate everyone who takes the time to read this and keep up with my little adventure... it really has been great so far when I have time to sit and contemplate it. I love and miss you all, and hope you're taking time out from your busy schedules to make a little fun and adventure for yourselves at home every now and then! Hasta luego! Besos!
Ben
